The transition from india to nepal has been nice. Indian and Nepal are very similar but at the same time very different. 15 minutes different really …
Where nepal runs on UTC +5:45 and india runs on UTC +5:30. A reminder that Nepal literally runs on its own time in more ways than one.
The flight from South India to Nepal (Kathmandu) was easy and uneventful until I looked out the window and saw the Himalayas for the first time. Of course, I didn’t have a window seat, so I was rubbernecking to get a good look. Just simply breathtaking, Simply breathtaking, both because of how beautiful it was and because, as luck would have it, I had been feeling run down for a few days and was developing a cough.
Clearing customs was the easiest thing I had ever done in my life. Not a single question, just a smile, a stamp, and “Welcome to Nepal.”
I was thinking there had to be another step, but nope, that was it. After getting my new SIM card and some Nepalese rupees, I walked out of the airport and saw my name on a placard. Pinch me, it got real.
The hotel shuttle carried me through yet another unfamiliar city, enjoying every bit of it, but this time there was something familiar waiting for me: my dear friend and travel buddy, Justin. I didn’t realize how much I needed that familiarity until he greeted me with a big hug.
Dazed from the flight and the onset of a fever, I dropped my bags, chugged some water, and we hit the streets. A beautifully crafted itinerary by Justin awaited us. I had barely reviewed it beyond a quick skim and was more than ready to just be along for the ride with a friend.
Our first afternoon took us straight into Kathmandu’s history, starting with Durbar Square and making our way through some of the city’s incredible UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Stretching across a few city blocks, you could easily spend half a day getting lost and exploring all the temples, shrines, and sights of Durbar Square.
One that stood out to me was the Taleju Temple, dedicated to Taleju Bhawani, the Malla kings’ protective goddess.
Parts of the centuries-old temple were covered in intricate Tantric carvings, some spiritual and symbolic, others surprisingly erotic and very much leaving little to the imagination. Some of these carvings are so old they predate the entire most things I can think of, showing the beliefs and artistic traditions of the Malla period.
Seeing something so openly depicted centuries ago really made me wonder how we became so prudish about it today. Not to downplay the rest of the magnificent square, because there was so much to take in, but for me, this took the cake!
We finished the day off at the Garden of Dreams. How appropriate, because it still felt like I was dreaming. The flora and fauna were just amazing, fountains singing, birds chirping, locals hanging about, and the whole place just had this magical feel to it.
I requested that we have a nap before dinner, as I felt like I’d been stampeded over by a herd of cows, then run over by a dozen tuk tuks for good measure. With a bunch of Ayurvedic herbs and cold meds in me, the plush boutique hotel bed was calling my name. A big difference from my humble little room along the shoreline in Kerala.
Over the next few days, I found the delicate balance between exploring and keeping my fever down. Justin was a great sport, always waiting for me to catch up.
At the “Monkey Temple,” thinking I had seen the gist of it, I was tapping out and heading back to sit in the van. A few minutes later, I got a text and then a call from Justin saying, “You gotta get up here! That was not the temple. THIS is the temple!”
So, I mustered all the strength I had and up I went. And I’m glad I did. Sick as a dog or not, reaching the top was worth every step.
At the top stood the massive white dome of Swayambhunath, with Buddha’s eyes watching out over Kathmandu. Prayer flags, prayer wheels, incense, and monkeys galore, with the entire valley stretching out below. Here it comes again. WOW.
If only I knew that just moments later, this would look little in comparison to what I’d see next.
The iconic Boudhanath Stupa, now this thing was massive. All the photos I had seen of this icon did not do it justice. Take Swayambhunath and multiply it by ten, and you might start to get the idea.
One of the most sacred places for Tibetan Buddhists outside Tibet, people make pilgrimages here from Nepal, Tibet, and around the world. Walking clockwise around the base, also called kora, you’ll find people spinning prayer wheels, praying, and making offerings as they go. Look up and you’ll see colorful prayer flags and Buddha’s eyes looking out in four directions, symbolizing awareness and wisdom.
As we arrived, we were welcomed and instructed to remove our shoes. Big signs said “No TikTok videos,” and then there was another sign that I apparently did not see or take in: no shorts.
So, as Justin and I are taking it all in, we’re less than a quarter of the way around when a gentleman turns to us and says in broken English, “No shorts.”
Justin and I both looked at each other and realized we were exposing our knees. I thought to myself, that’s what that sign meant. What do we do? Do we go back counterclockwise, or do we continue clockwise, baring our knees for all to see?
We don’t run, but we walk at a pretty fast clip. Our time on the stupa might have been rushed, but it certainly made for a good story.
Note to self: no shorts at temples, it’s rude and immodest.
Of course, after that brisk walk I needed a break to catch my breath and cough up a lung, reevaluating my decision to continue on.
We sat in a lovely coffee shop relaxing, overlooking the stupa. After enjoying a beverage, I thought once again it would probably be best for me to head back to the van and rest. Through an act of God, or perhaps Buddha, there was a pharmacy less than a block away!
With hardly more questions than I got going through customs, I walked out with some stronger cold meds and an antibiotic. Maybe I could keep going after all, with just two more stops for the day I must go on!
A gentle note before continuing: The next section touches on death, dying, and the public cremation of bodies. I’ll do my best to share the experience respectfully without going into too much detail. If this is a sensitive subject for you, please feel free to skip ahead. If you’re interested in the subject or my experience, I’d be happy to talk about it in more detail.
As many of you know, or maybe are just finding out, last year I completed my death doula certificate training, so this was something I was looking forward to. In hindsight, I probably should have prepared Justin just a touch more for this part, as it’s not every day you hear, “We’re going to a cremation on the river.” It didn’t click for him.
Sitting along the banks of the Bagmati River lay the Pashupatinath temple, considered one of the holiest and most important Hindu temples in the world. And the Bagmati River is considered one of Nepal’s most sacred rivers. Beginning its in the Kathmandu Valley and eventually joining the greater Ganges river system, its waters hold deep spiritual significance, especially here at Pashupatinath temple.
Families traditionally bring their deceased loved ones here as soon as possible after they pass, often within 24 hours, for purification, blessings, and cremation along the sacred river.
There is also an Ayurvedic hospice center, where people can receive care during their final days while remaining close to the sacred Bagmati River.
Seeing the process from start to finish is something I will never forget. There were no tears, just families coming together. At the river’s edge, the eldest son and the priest blessed and purified the body in the river. Prayers and mantra said, offerings were made before the body was carried to the cremation ghat and placed on the funeral pyre. The eldest son then traditionally lights the pyre, beginning the final part of the journey.
Our guide explained it in a way that really stuck with me. The deceased may not have lived the best life, and the family may not have always gotten along, but in this moment none of that matters. Performing these final rites gives the family, especially the eldest son, one last opportunity to make things right and help their loved one’s soul move peacefully forward into whatever comes next.
Our guide also told us that one of the bodies being brought in had been recovered from the massive landslide just two days before we arrived. It was clear from the condition of the body that they had been in the water for some time. I paused for a moment of silence to honor this person and everyone else who had lost their lives, those still being recovered, and those working tirelessly in the recovery efforts. From working natural disasters myself, I know just how deeply something like this can affect an entire community.
Before leaving, we were invited into one of the small temples, where a woman from one of the families traditionally connected to Pashupatinath gave us a personal blessing. Through mantra, tika, sacred thread, holy water, and flowers, she offered blessings of protection, peace and good fortune for the journey ahead.
With one more stop between us and the hotel, the cold had officially taken over and I had completely run out of steam. I let Justin take this adventure solo while I claimed the back seat of the van and slept. Somewhere between exhaustion and finally admitting defeat to the cold, I decided tomorrow would be a day for staying in bed, resting, and letting my body heal. Just what you want to do on holiday, right? Not exactly, but you have to listen to your body.
The next day, with a little bit of FOMO, I sent Justin off to explore without me, and back to bed I went. I ended up sleeping nearly the entire day. Apparently, I had made the right call. The next day we would be moving on from Kathmandu to Pokhara.
Pokhara sits about 200 kilometers west of Kathmandu, which meant choosing between an eight hour bus ride or a 25 minute flight. Naturally, we chose the flight! Officially the shortest flight I’ve ever taken, even beating the quick hop from Miami to Key West.
I’ll stop here, leaving Pokhara and everything that came with it for the next post. For now, peace, love, and happiness. – Jay
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